The Build-up
The first time I saw Mount Kilimanjaro was in 2016 during my safari at The Serengeti. I was on a plane when the pilot announced that on our descent we were flying past the World's Tallest Free-standing Mountain. As I peeped out of my window, I saw the sheer size of the mountain. It soared above the clouds giving us a glimpse of its magnificence. Passengers, ignoring the instructions of the flight attendants to remain seated, began to crowd by windows closest to them to click pictures. Fast forward to July 26th 2019, and a familiar sight greeted me on the plane. There was a difference, though. Last time I wondered if I could ever summit 19,341 ft; this time I had done it. ‘I climbed that three days ago’, a man noticeably excited said to whoever was near him. I silently shook his hand and nodded my head in respect. I went back to my seat and took a sip of Champagne and in my head I said to myself ‘So did you’. Here is how it all happened.
December 2018
I was surfing the Internet looking for vacation options. It seemed like a never-ending task. Every new destination beckoned. From historical, to scenic, to adventurous, to partying hubs, every page on the Internet beckoned me to the point of being utterly confused. I looked back at the vacations I had had over the past 5-7 years. Which were the ones I enjoyed the most? The mountains without a doubt. Both my previous treks, Hampta Pass and Annapurna Circuit, brought out some of the most enjoyable moments of my life. Going back to the mountains made sense. And then it struck me – why not Kili? It didn’t take more than a second for me to cement that thought that in the year 2019, I will climb Mount Kilimanjaro- One of the seven summits of the World.
There are at least 6 popular routes to summit the mountain. The most popular and cost-effective routes are Machame and Marangu routes, both of which approach the mountain from the South. There are more than 100 companies that offer to climb the mountain and most of them opt for either one of these routes. Most popular and most cost-effective also means most number of people and this was something that put me off. I wasn’t willing to go from a place with a lot of people (my country) to a mountain climb with a lot of people; I started looking for alternative routes.
The Lemosho-Western Breach Route
During my research, I came across a video on YouTube that pretty much sealed the deal. I reached out the company that the video featured - Kiliwarrior Expeditions. This company was based in Tanzania however one of the partners was based in Canada. It specialized in climbing the mountain through the Lemosho-Western Breach, a route that attracts less than 5% of Kili climbers. Very few companies offer this route given the risk involved in climbing the Western Breach. It is the only route where climbers are prone to constant rock fall. There have been fatalities reported in the recent past owing to falling rocks. In the year 2006, three climbers died when a rock nearly the size of an SUV descended upon them. Following this tragedy, the Tanzanian Authorities decided to close this route until a thorough investigation was done. Following a year of closure, the route was reopened with a relatively ‘safer’ trail. Notwithstanding this, rock falls remain a constant threat to anyone opting to climb this route. The fatalities didn’t stop. As recently as September 2015, Live Your Legend founder Scott Dinsmore died a tragic death on this route from rockfall.
Securing my spot
My interactions with Gerry Analytis, one of the partners of Kiliwarrior Expeditions, were excellent. He is an affable individual and his responses were prompt, timely, relevant, and useful. Over the course of our interactions, I felt more and more assured that if I had to summit Uhuru Peak via the Western Breach, Kiliwarrior Expeditions was the one I’d do it with. They had the experience and most importantly, the expertise. The price you pay for climbing with Kiliwarrior Expeditions is at least 1.5 times (if not double) of what other companies charge, however, it is well worth every paisa spent as the company simply exceeds your expectations in every department with its professionalism throughout the climb. More on that later. Once I made my token payment to secure the climb, the excitement started to build up.
July 2019
My climb was scheduled from 15th July-23rd July. That meant 9 days on the mountain. It was quite paradoxical that the shortest and riskiest way to summit Kili involved spending the maximum number of days on the mountain (all other routes complete the entire climb in 5-7 days). The reason Kiliwarriors spreads the climb over 9 days is acclimatization. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) remains the biggest reason for failures and deaths on the mountain and realistically, your best chance of summitting the mountain is directly proportionate to how well you can acclimatize yourself to the altitude.
Back in December 2018, I woke up with a great pain running the right side of my lower back all the way to my abdomen. I was diagnosed with a 4.5mm kidney stone in my right kidney. I didn’t get it operated as I tried various home remedies. The pain never returned hence I assumed it had been flushed out. That wasn’t the case. A week before my departure, the pain came back with a vengeance. I knew instantly that the stone was very much around. My doctor was quite clear – cancel the trek. The thought of the pain while climbing Kili was not a pleasant one but a man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do. Armed with some pretty potent pain-killers, I decided to stay my course.
With some great advice from my aviation expert from my dear friend Devesh Aggarwal, I opted to fly with Ethiopian Airways. My flight path was Bengaluru-Mumbai-Addis Ababa-Arusha with nearly an entire day at Addis. I landed at Mt Kilimanjaro Airport in Arusha on a very pleasant afternoon. Tom Analytis, Gerry’s son, was waiting for me just outside along with the core team of guides. Tom is a very likable young man. He is helpful, knowledgeable and has an eye for detail. He is perceptive and attentive and will go to any extent possible to ensure clients are well taken care of. The remainder of 13th would be spent relaxing at the hotel while the 14th would be spent in gear check, and a stroll to the nearby market to pick-up any last minute essentials.
Meet The Baker’s Dozen
On the morning of the 14th, I was introduced to the remaining climbers. It was a most interesting mix of people.
Alex and Carlos - A duo of Video Bloggers or vloggers known as the Vagabrothers from California
Charles, Manny and Nicholas – A trio of Police Officers from the New York Police Department
The Mittal family featuring Jaya, Vivek and their 16-year old son Manu. They are from California.
Paul – A 67-year old Irishman (now American) and the Mittal Family’s partner in crime when it came to adventures.
Hans – A Swedish Entrepreneur
Nick – An adventurous 22-year old who seemed to have travelled more than the rest of us put together.
With Tom joining us for the climb, this was a baker’s dozen like no other.
Day 1: 7700 ft to 9000 ft
After a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, we proceeded to the Londorossi gate. The drive could take up to 4 hours because of traffic. Here, we were to register with the authorities, complete our formalities, and meet the entire team that would make this climb possible. The excitement at the gate is palpable. There were hundreds of people including climbers, guides, porters and support staff preparing for the climb. Each duffel bag carried by a porter has to be weighed and must not exceed 20kgs. It was staggering to know that the 13 of us will be climbing Mount Kilimanjaro with the support of 70 people. Apart from the guides and porters there were kitchen staff, toilet maintenance staff, camp management staff, water management staff, and medical staff. I could not but admire the professionalism levels of Kiliwarrior Expeditions. This promised to be a most memorable climb. Once the formalities were completed, we would proceed to Big Tree Camp, and post lunch, our climb would start at 7700 feet.
The Rainforest Zone (Altitude 7700 feet): Shortly after lunch, we were greeted to Hakuna Matata, the most popular song sung by the locals. You can imagine the vibe when a team of 70 people sing and dance. It is a small ritual, yet one that inspires, unites and propels the team forward. Kiliwarrior Expeditions performs this before each climb.
The Rainforest Zone presents the most beautiful landscape of the entire climb. Mostly invisible to the common eye, the forest is teeming with life. Monkeys and birds dominate the forest and although they are heard everywhere one needs a keen eye to spot them. Blue Monkeys, Colobus Monkeys are native to this rainforest. We were lucky enough to spot quite a few. Birds were harder to spot. The trail was well laid out with occasional slippery spots owing to the rain and moss. Many of the massive trees that soared above us were very old and had a tale of their own to tell. Every now and then, we passed by vast gorges which gave us beautiful views of the sky. It was one of the most beautiful tapestries that Mother Nature had woven for us and we, as a group, soaked it all up. After all, these few hours were all we had. The next zone known as the Heather Zone would present a stark contrast to the Rainforest Zone.
At 9000 feet, we reached Forest Camp. The huge kitchen tent emitted aromas of dinner. We settled into our tents, changed into comfortable clothing and an hour later, we were served some delicious and elaborate dinner. The group started get to know each other much before the trek however it was evident that the real bonding was starting to happen here. Each of us had such a diverse background yet fitting into a group never seemed this easy. There were jokes being cracked, tales being told, experiences being shared. In no time, this seemed like a group that knew each other for a while. Always a good feeling!
Once we were done with dinner, the guides came up to the Mess Tent and briefed us about the next day’s climb. Day 2 would be far longer and more arduous as we would ascend nearly 2500 feet. The Heather Zone would present a fresh set of challenges for us. A good night’s sleep would prepare us well
Day 2: 9000 feet to 11520 feet
We were up by 630-7. It was cold yet pleasant. The rays of the sun pierced through the thick foliage of the forest. A hot cup of tea awaited us at the Mess Tent. The topic of the morning was sleep. For most, it was the first time they were in a sleeping bag hence there were some adjustment issues; not to mention the sounds of the monkeys and birds that permeated throughout the night. No such issues for me though; at least not for the moment.
The tea was soothing. There was a buzz at the camp as the porters started dismantling the tents at a frenetic pace. We quickly rushed to our respective tents, changed into a fresh set of clothes and headed to the Mess tent for breakfast. The breakfast spread was impressive. Cut fruits, toasted bread, nuts, porridge, and scrambled eggs were served to us by the kitchen staff. If that weren’t enough, there were accompaniments – Peanut butter, Tomato Ketchup, Mayonnaise. This was indeed a welcome surprise. The guides were ready with their brief.
Today’s trek required us to traverse a longer path and gain higher altitude. As we went deeper into the Heather Zone the tree cover reduced drastically although the vegetation remained lush. The air was still heavy with mist. A few hours into the Heather zone brought us face-to-face with our destination for the first time. High, above the clouds, stood the gargantuan mountain. All this while, the rainforest hid the mountain but now, with the forest cover giving way to grasslands, the view of the mountain was clear. My first reaction was ‘Oh shit! That is BIG. How on Earth are we going to get there in 7 days’. ‘Pole, Pole came the answer’. It was Hosae, one of the senior most guides on the trek. He put his arm around my shoulder and said ‘Never think of what will happen on Day 7. Think of only your next step’. I had heard those words before, but never did they sound more important than now. ‘You hungry?’ He asked me with a grin on his face. ‘Hell yeah, I’m ready to eat’, I replied. ‘Good, because you see that tent in the distance?’, he said pointing out to a green set of tents quite far away, ‘That’s where we have lunch’. The first part of our day was nearly done. An hour later, we were at the tent. I was tired. A little more hydration required, I told myself.
Lunch was yet again a well laid out spread- Cut fruits, soup, bread, pasta, muffins, this was getting better and better. The icing on the cake, however, was the way the group was bonding. We discussed literally anything and everything under the sun. From Trump, to population explosion, to family, to journeys, to language, quite literally everything. With our tummies full, we continued our journey. The rest of the day was uneventful. We just kept walking, and walking, and walking. I was getting bored and I knew why. My mind was already on Uhuru Peak yet here I was – walking just one step at a time. ‘Pole, Pole, Jaideep, Pole, Pole!’.
At nearly 7pm, we found ourselves arriving at Shira Camp. Our colourful tents were set up. The camp management staff and the porters greeted us cheerfully with fist bumps. We were nearing the end of Day 2. As were having dinner, one of the guides came running into the tent and beckoned us all to step out. We weren’t sure why until we stepped out. It was a full moon night and a clear sky. No big deal, you might say. But when you look at the full moon directly above Mount Kilimanjaro, illuminating it with its light, it becomes a very big deal. It was by far the most beautiful sight I had ever seen. Mother Nature, what are you!!! I stood in awe for nearly a minute. It was the first time in my life that I wished I were a photographer. This spectacular sight will remain etched in our hearts and minds. We went to sleep feeling immensely satisfied.
Day 3: 11520 ft to 13800 ft.
Ice, quite a bit of it on my tent and around it. The night had been cold and windy. Some of us hadn’t slept. The altitude was getting to some while the wind kept others awake. Hot water was doing the rounds, apparently. But we’d been had. There wasn’t any hot water. It was Charlie, one of the NYPD officers mimicking the kitchen management staff. The morning had started off on a very funny note. At the mess tent, with some actual hot water, tea and coffee, Charlie cracked us up as he narrated how some of us reacted to his prank. Breakfast done, packing done, briefings done, we were ready to leave but not before the familiar sight of the Kiliwarriors Team performing their jingles. With Kanini, the most talented singer of the group, leading, the rest of the group sang along. Some of us were pulled to dance but we could never match their grace and effortlessness. Yes, at that altitude, even a 2-minute dance can tire you out.
Today’s trek was probably the longest. The Moorland Zone was basically just shrubs, grass and rocks. It would lead into the Shira Plateau and all throughout the altitude gain was consistent. Gaining 2300 ft in a single day was never going to be easy and although the it spanned across nearly 7 hours, the path appeared quite gruelling. Because it dominated the landscape, it was always hard not to keep one eye on the mountain. Halfway through the day, I was getting tired again. I began to think that I wasn’t hydrating enough. There were signs of Altitude sickness creeping in as I started getting mild headaches. My breaks became frequent. I was, however, quite excited.
Scott Fischer, a renowned mountaineer credited with many achievements, is jointly credited for the discovery of the Western Breach Route. Following his untimely and unfortunate death on Mount Everest in 1996, a memorial was made at his favourite spot and that was where we were standing. A beautiful plaque was made with the touching words ‘Perhaps I shall be a new Mountain so that you will always have a home’. Scott Fischer is credited with many achievements. It was a matter of great pride for all of us that his apprentice, Wilbert Mollel, the man who has summited Kili more than 200 times, was now leading us to the summit.
Shortly after lunch, the climb was much steeper. By now, something was beginning to bother me – my kidney stone. The pain was slowly returning, and I was uncomfortable. Yet, summoning all my will, I resumed the climb. Conversations with other trekkers continued throughout the day. It was probably the only way I avoid thinking about my headache and the stone. My fellow trekker, Nick, was quite curious about my journey as an entrepreneur and despite the discomfort, I was more than happy to share my experiences with him. Before we knew it, we were at Moir Camp. At dinner, my discomfort grew. I knew it wasn’t anything serious however I had to take action. I took a pain-killer and slept early that night. I was asleep in less than 10 minutes.
End of Part 1
